Arkansas {50 States of Yoga}

From the moment I stepped off the plane I knew Arkansas was going to be different. The air. The freshness of the air. I can't remember ever smelling air so clean and earthy. It was heavy with humidity and nature.

I grabbed my rental car and headed southwest towards Arkadelphia, where my motel was. In hindsight I would stay in a hotel in Hot Springs next time, but I tend to gravitate towards the frugal options and have been working on collecting hotel awards this year, so my choice was tainted by these. My motel was fine. Nothing awful, but nothing to write home about.
 

After checking in I set out to explore the town of Arkadelphia a little. I asked the 20-something check-in girl at the motel what would she do if she had a night to hang out in Arkadelphia? She said go to Hot Springs. Hmph. So I asked where Walmart was instead. Because Arkansas... Walmart's home state. I felt the need to see one. Turns out, Walmart in Arkansas is much like Walmart anywhere else. Which I guess is the point. I bought bananas and bottled water and drove around town a bit.

For a town with 2 colleges, it really is kind of dull. I passed a white wood frame house with a decent yard and a Just Reduced sign atop a For Sale sign on the lawn. When I got back to my room I googled it. (By the way, I'm excited to see Miriam Webster made google a verb.) Just reduced to $62,000. A duplex with 2 bedrooms/1 bath on each side. Hardwood floors. Just over a half acre of flat, verdant lawn. $62,000. I can't buy garage space for that price in the San Francisco Bay area... let alone income property! For a minute I dreamed of owning my own little piece of Arkadelphia.  But then I drifted off to sleep.
 

The next morning I had a brief conversation with the owner of the motel and she was lovely. Probably in her mid 30s and was obviously not from the area. So I had to know how she ended up there. She is originally from India and had lived in Jersey City for some time before her husband had decided to become a motelier. It sounded as if Arkansas was chosen randomly. She didn't seem like she loved the remoteness of the area, but she didn't seem unhappy either. She said they had been in Arkadelphia for 12 years and her son had been born there. She had taken her son back to India for a visit and he didn't like it. Isn't it funny how that happens?
 

I set out towards Hot Springs shortly after 10am. I didn't get far before the magic began. The sign read, Highway of Hope. That's it. Nothing specific about a dedication to a military troop, no remembrance placard, nothing to signify what we were hoping for. Just hope. For hope's sake. I like it. Highway of Hope.
 

 

It was a gorgeous drive, this Highway of Hope. Through lush forest, beside pristine lakes, I drove slow and winding. Through a little town, Bismark, a sign caught my eye, Happy Tree. I read through the list of items Happy Tree had on the sign real quick as I drove by. They slowly registered in my head... organic, natural... I started to think it may be some sort of gardening store... then another line registered in my brain... essential oils. Wait, what? Essential oils? So... it's a hippie store? Out here in the middle of the Highway of Hope? I turned around; I had to see what this place was.
 

I was greeted by a woman in her 60s. Long, gray hair. Waif-like, but not frail. Smile. She was so friendly. The little store is full of healthy foods, natural ingredient products, and basically a little hippie haven of goodness. I spoke to the owners for 10 or 15 minutes. Such a charming couple with beautiful souls. They shared stories of the places they'd been, some of their adventures, how they ended up here and even where they might retire one day.... Belize. If I had been staying in the area for more than a day, I would have liked to have dinner with them. I felt like they were the kind of people my husband and I would be friends with. {They reminded me a lot of a couple we were close with in Berkeley that had passed away.} Back onto the Highway of Hope, I continue my journey towards Hot Springs with some goodies from Happy Tree in hand.
 

Happy Tree in Bismarck, AR

 

Hot Springs was a lot more than I had imagined after not finding a lot in Arkadelphia. As I entered the area I was greeted by the beautiful, large Lake Hamilton. Lots of waterfront hotels and boat rentals. Continuing further it becomes much like a regular city. Fast foods, malls and the like. And then.... then it turns into the Hot Springs National Park area and becomes a little slice of paradise. The tree lined main street, Central Avenue, is charming and historic. One side storefronts filled with crystal shops {think rocks, not Waterford}, souvenirs stores with an overwhelming supply of tie dyes, and quirky independent boutiques. The opposite side is historic bathhouse after historic bathhouse. Most are no longer operating as bathhouses anymore. One has been preserved by the National Parks system to tour for free. They also provide a movie about the hot springs and bathhouses. Another is set up as a cultural center, while a 3rd is a gift shop. In the gift shop they have a drinking fountain and cups available to taste the hot springs waters for yourself.
 

The large brown building was an Army/Navy hospital years ago.  A volunteer at the National Park site told me his father served in WWI and suffered from rheumatoid arthritis.  So his father decided to move his whole family here to have access to this hospital and the hot springs, which were said to benefit people with his condition.  That volunteer had grown up in the area and never left!

 

Lamar Bathhouse - now the NPS store.

 

Jugs for sale in the NPS store to collect hot springs water.

 

 

Quawpaw Baths - still an active bathhouse, but did close at one point and is more like a modernized spa {or so I am told... it was closed on Tuesday.}

Quawpaw Baths, looking down towards Fordyce Bathhouse.

 

Fordyce Bathhouse - where you will find the NPS "preserved" bathhouse for touring.  You can't really tell in this photo, but that fountain in the foreground is from one of the hot springs.... and is actually steaming... on an 80 degree, humid day! 

Inside Fordyce Bathhouse

  

The bathhouses are segregated by sex.

Changing stalls / Locker room.

 

Seating area in the Ladies locker room.

 

Soaking Tub



Soaking tub stalls {and a drinking fountain}

 

 

 

Tables to cool down on after your soak.

A Sitz Tub on the left and a Vapor Cabinet on the right.



A Needles Shower

The Men's Locker Room.  Their's was quite a bit more elegant with a fountain in the center and the below stained glass in the ceiling!  The photo doesn't do it justice.  It's just stunning in person!

 

 



On the second floor were spaces for medical use and massages.

The third floor housed this lovely lounge area, with more stained glass in the ceiling.  Although it looks like it is mixed sexes, the area had a side for men and another side for women.

 

 

 

The gym on the third floor.

Hubbard Tub

Ladies' Staterooms were available for additional charge for use during your visit.
With a dresser and a twin size bed.

 

Beauty Parlor for Ladies.

 

A few of the bathhouses are open and operating as bathhouses and/or spas. Only one, however, has been in continuous operation since it opened in 1912, The Buckstaff Baths. And this is the one I went to to have my Hot Springs bathhouse experience.

 



Buckstaff Baths

I began my experience by choosing my services at the front desk, right inside the front door of the Buckstaff bathhouse. The "Whirlpool Mineral Bath" which includes a 20 minute soak in the hot springs water, a hot pack, the vapor cabinet, a sitz bath and a "needle" shower for $33. For $4 more you can buy a loofah mitt for an additional scrub down during your bath. I did this and recommend skipping it if you go. A.) I received a 5 second per calf scrub and a 10 second scrub on my back from the attendant. B.) I have no idea what she did with the loofah mitt I bought while I was still in the tub, so I didn't even get to keep it as a souvenir. Meh. Anyway, for $34 you can also add a 20 minute Swedish massage. After the scrub and massage I had a couple weeks ago in Illinois, I just couldn't imagine that it would compare and opted to skip it.
 

From the counter I was directed to an old fashioned elevator to the 2nd floor, the segregated women's floor. {But not before an older gentleman exiting the men's side flirted with me. He was a cutie; I played along.} The attendant in the elevator brought me up a level and guided me to a locker room set up with curtained changing booths. After I disrobed and locked my stuff away, another attendant wrapped a white sheet around me and directed me to have a seat.
 

It was about a 10 minute wait for an available tub. I chit chatted with a few women about the local area, traveling in general and with a woman from Chicago about King Spa & Sauna. She had heard of it from a colleague, but had never been. Another attendant called my name and brought me into the spa room. There were about a dozen stalls that each had 3 solid walls and one curtain housing old fashioned bathtubs. The bathtub was filled with hot springs water and a jet {that resembled a small outboard motor} was turned on. I took my sheet off, stepped into the tub and the attendant placed a modesty towel over my body. She stepped out and drew the curtain closed behind her.
 

This is where it could have been amazing. Except it wasn't. I was in a tub that didn't have a working plug/stopper. And apparently this was a known issue. Which annoyed me that they knew the tub didn't hold water and yet used it anyway. It sounds like a minor thing, but what is supposed to be a peaceful 20 minute soak in mineral waters was a constant attempt to attract the attention of the attendants to get refills when it had drained. Lame.
 

After the tub {and that 20 second loofah scrub I mentioned earlier} I was wrapped in my sheet, given a Dixie cup with ice cold water, and sent to a room full of lounge bed frames with vinyl mattresses and bolsters for under you knees. I thought the bolsters were a nice touch. I laid down for about 5 minutes with my heart beating rapidly in my chest. My attendant then wrapped an ice cold towel around my forehead and face. This felt amazing. 5 minutes later she returned with hot, wet towels and wrapped my shoulders and back. This was the "hot pack".
 

I rested for another 10 minutes before I followed my attendant to the vapor cabinet. Or it looked more like a steam tank. It was so odd! But basically a metal box that my head peeked out of the top that steamed my body. It felt good, but by this point I was really starting to feel dehydrated. If I go again, I will drink a lot of water and probably bring my own bottle of water with me.
 

From the vapor cabinet I went to a sitz bath. Which... is a bath you sit in. Basically a sink for your bum. I'm not sure I understand the purpose of the sitz bath, but they had them in King Spa, too... so I'm sure they do something. Lastly, was the needle shower. 8 shower heads coming at you from 4 corners. It was just a shower though, so a bit anticlimactic.
 

I toweled off, dressed and headed out to world. I felt refreshed, definitely. I would do it again. But if I got a tub that didn't have a working stopper, I would request being moved. That definitely took away from the experience.
 

Must have water. I was pretty hungry, too. I grabbed a decent burger and a bottle of water for lunch. I probably should have had 2 bottles. I then strolled the shops along Central Ave. and found a few wonderful souvenirs. Like a clear quartz point mined in Arkansas that I bought at Crystal Springs Mining & Jewelry Co.  The woman there was very helpful.  I let her know that I was interested in learning more about the stones associated with certain chakras and that I wanted to try meditating with them.  She said that I could use a book to see which stones were most associated with which chakras, but that it was so much more than that.  That she prefered to let the stones speak to her and find stones and crystals that made her feel something.  I thought that was beautiful. So I set off around her store looking for stones that made me feel.  Besides the quartz point I chose, I also go an amazonite, a red jasper and a hematite stone.  {Later in the day I drove up West Mountain summit and blessed the red jasper and hematite in the dirt from the mountainside, figuring I would use these two stones in Root Chakra meditation.}

 I also bought a reversible sweatshirt with mandala-like patches on it. I didn't buy one of the abundant tie dyes, which is surprising because I pretty much live in tie dyes. But in 2 weeks I will be near one of my favorite tie dye stores and will likely want a new one then!  I bought a bunch of things at a great little store, Earthbound Trading Co., also on Central Ave.  A golden octopus paperweight for Dave, a Hamsa hand dish for me and Chakra incense for meditation.  The woman who worked there was also nice enough to give me one of their burlap bags with their name on it.  I'm such a bag lady.  I didn't realize it at the time, but they're actually a chain store and have quite a many stores around the US.  I'll have to look for them on my future travels.

After all this shopping I drove up to the Hot Springs Mountain Tower.  Folks said it had great views of the area.  And, although I am sure it does, I didn't want to spend $7 for the elevator to the top.  So instead, I headed back down the mountain and to my yoga class at The Yoga Place.

View of the Hot Springs Tower from West Mountain

View of Hot Springs from West Mountain

The Yoga Place is located in a 100 year old church.  Formerly the Haven United Methodist Church,  the building was abandoned in 2005 when the congretation moved to a new church.  The church fell into disrepair, was purchased by a couple that turned it into an art studio space and then purchased again by the current owner. {source}  The current owner has rented out the basement to a dance studio, the main hall to The Yoga Place, an office space to a massage therapist and has also created a wonderful space with a kitchen, bedroom and bathroom - perfect for renting out for events {when included in with the main hall space}.  I really wish I had taken some better photos.  I tend to rely a lot on photos from online when sharing photos of the yoga studios I visit.  Mostly because I am actually pretty shy and don't feel comfortable walking around snapping photos of everything in people's spaces.  But this place.... words cannot do it justice.  If you are anywhere near Hot Springs, you must take a class at The Yoga Place.  The vibe is amazing in a space filled with stained glass windows and an old church organ. 

The Yoga Place

 

 

 

Inside The Yoga Place - During class you face this wall... the photo doesn't do it justice!

 

And the wall to your back during class...

 

But enough about the space... how was my class?  I chose the 5:30 pm class with Jackie.  A Gentle Yoga class.  After I finished absorbing the atmosphere and chatting with Jackie and the church's owner {I'm awful with names!  Ugh!}, I settled onto my mat.  My class ended up being a private class, which was a first for me.  Jackie has such an easy-going personality.  She made me feel so well taken care of and attended too.  She created some nice flow for me to go through, and I really felt good in the down dogs.  She has a divine spirit about her.  Effortless, but without making me feel like a giant, clumsy ogre {I do occasionally feel this way around graceful yogis}.  She gently pushed me through sequences that felt empowering and then... the Goddess pose!  What!?!  How had I never heard of this pose?  She radiated in the Goddess pose, and I, I concentrated on balancing on my toes and probably looked constipated.  But that didn't stop me from falling in love with this pose.  It was like the culmination of what had been a truly sacred day for me in Hot Springs.  That moment where I felt like a goddess.  I was a goddess.  I am a goddess.  And then.. to the gentle.  She taught me a couple of great restorative poses for my back.  And savasana.  While I rested in savasana Jackie shared some thieves essential oil with me... on my shoulders, neck and ears.  It was beautiful way to return to reality after an empowering class.  It is possible that corpse pose is no longer my favorite pose... I think the Goddess pose may be the new #1.  

After class as we were saying our goodbyes, Jackie mentioned that the Hot Springs area was special because the underground was filled with crystals.  And then I remembered the quartz point I had bought earlier... mined in Arkansas.  Then the business, just down the street, Crystal Cave.  So with a little googling... I discovered the area is rich in crystals and precious stones and metals.  How wonderful!  I wondered if that is why the place feels so magical?

One last stop in Hot Springs before I head back to my motel room.  I had to fill up my 2 empty water bottles with hot springs water.  There are about a half dozen public access fountains around town for filling your water bottles.  The tourist shops on the Central Ave. even sell empty gallon jugs to fill.  I filled my little bottles {blessed my quartz point and amazonite in the hot springs water} and headed back towards the Highway of Hope. {I have since read that the name was given to the route between Hope and Hot Springs, AR because President Bill Clinton often traveled this route during his childhood.}
 

One of the hot spring fountains.

 

The mineral contents of the spring.

 

Bubba's Catfish and Seafood... I stopped here for catfish, hushpuppies and fries on the way out of Hot Springs.

I slept but a few hours that night, up at 2:45 am to drive back to Little Rock and catch a 5:40 am flight to Dallas and eventually San Francisco.  I had never been to Arkansas before and {I can't lie} had never had any interest in going.  To me it was just another fly over state filled with unrelatable people and nothing interesting.  I was so wrong.  Arkansas is beautiful.  The people kind and engaging and sincere.  The scenery is breathtaking.  I cannot wait to go back to Arkansas.  To visit Hot Springs again, but also to visit more.  To drive the winding back roads.  To swim in the crystal lakes.  To breathe the wild air.  To talk to the local people and share with them, their Arkansas.  I definitely discovered a piece of myself there.  And I want to go back again and again.

Here is an interesting little story about the Native American history in the area, known to them as The Valley of Vapors.

And some random history for you.... that I discovered on the NPS site for Hot Springs NP {and because baseball season is starting!}: Hot Springs, Arkansas, was the premier baseball spring training site from the 1880s-1940s. The Chicago White Stockings, Cincinnati Reds, Pittsburgh Pirates, Boston Red Sox and others came to soothe their aching muscles at the many bathhouses using Hot Springs National Park water. {I believe this means Babe Ruth may have soaked in a tub I soaked it!}
 

Thank you Southwest for the ride from Little Rock to Dallas...

...and Virgin America for the ride home from Dallas!

 

 

Thank you for taking the time to read about my journey in Arkansas! I also visited Nevada on this trip, so don't forget to read that post, too. It's a lot shorter, I promise! Please check out all my stories of adventures to the 50 States of Yoga!